Advice for lubricants

All partially used containers (bottles) of motor oil, brake or transmission fluids may be used for a period of three years following their purchase. However, the product needs to be sealed and stored in a dry, non-humid area.

One of the first things one sees in the label of an oil container is a group of numbers such as 10W30. The numbers refer to the oil viscosity or density.

The first number ("10" in this case) indicates how smoothly the oil flows when cold and whether it shall remain diluted ensuring easy starting in cold winter mornings.

The letter "W" indicates how smoothly the oil will flow when cold and whether it will remain free-flowing, ensuring easy starting in cold winter mornings.

The second number ("30" in this example) indicates how well the oil will maintain its density under high temperatures.

The motor attempts to keep the gasoline in a different compartment than the oil when operating, but due to changes from low to high speeds and from low to high temperatures, it is impossible to think that the oil will be absolutely free of gasoline.

In addition, condensation in extreme temperatures will create steams (water) that are deposited to the oil. Dirt and residues are removed from the oil filter, but only a comprehensive change of oil and filter can remove unwanted and harmful fluids.

Check your owner's manual for the recommended type of oil (such as 5W30 or 10W30). If you are not in possession of a manual or need additional information, ask at a gas station near you.

Remove all dirt, wax or grease from the rusty area.

Scrub loose rust with a grout knife or screw driver.

Use a wheel adapter or turret bearing for your electric drill (sanding brush no. 24) to remove rust. Be meticulous! Scrub an area of 10 cm around the rusty spot. Do not stop until the metal is shiny again.

Use a cloth to remove all the dust from scrubbing.

Prepare the car body filler according to the instructions on the packaging. Larger holes need a grid or glass wool filling. When using glass wool, treat the bubbles to make it as smooth as possible.

Fill the scrubbed area with a thin layer of car body filling. Keep the spatula at a 60˚ angle and apply the filling material in order to keep the repaired area thicker in the centre and thinner along the edges.

Leave it to dry according to the instructions and add additional layers when and as necessary.

Scrub the filling material that is now hard with a sanding brush starting with a #40 and finishing off with a #120 brush. Scrub at a 45˚ angle and following change directions forming an X.

Lay a thin stucco or polishing material to cover the scratches resulting from scrubbing. Leave it to dry according to the instructions and following, scrub with a glass brush #220 initially and later with a #320 one. Use a cloth to remove all the dust from the scrubbing.

Cover the surrounding area and spray with primer. Spray thin and homogeneous layers following instructions. When dry (confirm by touching) scrub with a wet glass brush #360 until smooth and finish with a #400 brush. Scrub the area until smooth like glass! Remove all dust with a cloth.

Spray with the right colour or paint with a repair spray product. You will need at least five very thin layers. Each layer should be implemented evenly and the primer colour should be visible even after the third layer of repair paint. Should any bubbles appear on the paint, scrub the area under repair lightly with a wet glass brush (#600), always removing the dust with a cloth prior to painting again.

When fully dried, remove the covering material and leave the repaired area to rest for a few days.

After a few days, when the repaired area is fully dried and hard, scrub the painted area with a soft scrubbing mixture. Start from the edges and move towards the centre of the patch.

Finally, coat the entire area with was and enjoy a rust-free vehicle. Since paint wears off with time, your patch may acquire a slightly different colour from the rest of the car body. However, the difference will not be noticeable.